Japan’s Long Journey
For many years, going back as far as the 1970s, Japanese drinks giant Suntory had a large neon billboard in Times Square, high above the crowds at the north end. In later years the sign advertised Suntory’s Hibiki label, released in 1989 to commemorate the company’s 90th anniversary. The whisky and its billboard aimed to show the world that Japan could create an iconic whisky worthy of the global stage. Jaded New Yorkers barely noticed. The rest of the country wasn’t moved either. On most export markets, it was a similar story. In Japan itself, meanwhile, whisky was largely a mass market affair, with brands like Hi Nikka, Suntory White, Super Nikka, and others doing huge volumes as office workers downed their Highballs in the izakayas (pubs) after a long, hard…